Friday, March 2, 2012

How to Grow Marigolds from Seed


A bright summer day, gentle breeze and a group of Marigolds in bloom… it’s hard to even imagine a spectacle more stunning! What if you could create this same stunning spectacle in your own garden? Sounds like a tough task? Well, it isn’t! Growing marigolds from seeds takes just a little effort and care. Here’s some information to help you grow marigold plants.

You can start marigold seeds indoors in spring, 6-7 weeks from the first frost free date for your region. Use a sterile seed potting mix for sowing the seeds. Fill the tray with the potting mix and add water to moisten it. Sow the seeds at least 2 inches apart and top them with about ¼ inch of medium. Cover the tray with a plastic cover and place it at a warm spot. Seed germination usually takes 5-7 days. Make sure to check on the seeds ever day and keep the mix moist at all times. 

Once the seeds germinate, remove the plastic cover and move the tray to a bright spot, away from direct sunlight. The seedlings will be ready to be moved to individual containers within the next 10 days. Place the containers in a location that offers full sun. Irrigate the plants regularly, making sure the soil doesn’t become dry.   
Hardening off the seedlings is essential to prepare the plants for the outdoor conditions. Start by placing them in a bright, sheltered area of your garden for a couple of hours. Gradually add to the time the plants spend outdoors over a span of 7-10 days. Once the danger of frost is past, you can transplant marigold seedlings in your garden. 

Pick a sunlit spot with well draining soil for planting marigold seedlings. Next, remove all stones and weeds from the planting site and incorporate peat moss or other organic materials. The planting hole should be just enough large to accommodate the root ball. Sow the seedlings 10-15 inches apart and water well after refill.

Growing marigolds from seed is a process that’s both exciting and inexpensive. Recommended to all!

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Tips for Growing Impatiens from Seed

One of the world’s most popular annuals, Impatiens is also one of the most beautiful! This lissome plant blooms early in the spring season, adding both color and appeal to the surroundings. Impatiens plants are cold hardy and can be cultivated in both sunny and shaded sites. Interested in growing impatiens? It’s pretty simple, really, and very economical too! The following tips will help you grow impatiens from seed.


  • Fill the container with a sterile seed starting mix and moisten it by adding water. Scatter impatiens seeds and press them gently so that they’re only just below the surface. Use a plastic sheet or lid to cover the container.
  • Check the estimated last frost date for your region. You can start impatiens seeds 8-10 weeks from this date.
  • Refer the details provided on the seed package for the right growing temperature for the seeds. Artificial lighting apparatus is the easiest means of making sure the seeds get the desired warmth. In case you wish to use direct sunlight, place the container near a window. Make sure you turn the container at regular intervals in order to allow all the seeds to benefit the heat.
  •  Check the seeds every day. Also, make sure the mix stays moist at all times. Seed germination normally takes about 10-14 days. Those living in cooler regions might have to wait a little longer. 
  • Once the seedlings develop 2-3 pairs of leaves, you can transplant them to individual containers. Fertilize regularly, using a standard, well balanced fertilizer.
  • Hardening impatiens seedlings is an essential step in preparing the young plants for the outdoors. Start by placing the containers in a sheltered part of your garden for a couple of hours. Gradually increase the time they spend outdoors over a period of 7-10 days.
  • Transplant impatiens only after all threat of frosts is over. In the mean time, you can clear the planting site and add good quantities of organic substances to the soil. Water the plants before removing them from their individual containers. This will loosen the roots and allow for easy transplantation.
  • Leave a gap of 3-4 inches between adjacent plants and water thoroughly after planting.
 Irrigate your plants regularly, especially during the first couple of months after planting. Fertilize impatiens just before they bloom in spring. That, and a little care is all you need  for growing impatiens!

Friday, February 17, 2012

Growing Pansies in Containers

A joyous burst of color- that’s what Pansies bring to the scene! That’s also one of the major reasons behind the immense popularity of these winsome plants. Pansies offer an incredible range of flower color that’s invaluable in container gardening. Growing pansies in containers doesn’t take much effort or expertise. It does, however, call for the right knowledge and some planning. Take a look.

 If you’re looking to start pansy seeds indoors, it’s important to sow the seeds at the right time. You can either start in late winter, 7-10 weeks from planting in spring, or start seeds in late summer and plant them in the beginning of fall. The instructions on the seed packet are normally a reliable source of information regarding the right planting depth, spacing and temperature conditions. I sow the seeds shallow, with only a thin layer of soil to cover them. Water thoroughly and cover the container with a plastic lid. Place the container in a cool, dark place. Pansy seeds normally take 2-3 weeks for germination. Check the container at regular intervals and make sure the soil doesn’t dry up at any point. Once the seedlings develop 3-4 leaves, you can transplant them to individual containers.

It’s very important to get the new container all ready for the young plant. Mix equal quantities of organic compost and potting soil. Provide a couple of inches thick layer of loose gravel at the base of the container. The layer of gravel helps in drainage and thus, prevents water logging. Wet the mixture of compost and potting soil. I’d recommend you use distilled water for the task as it’s free from fluoride and other chemicals present in water from regular sources. Next, fill in the container with this mix, up to a couple of inches from the top.

Water the seedling before transplanting. This will loosen the soil and make it easier to remove them. Plant the seedling into the new container and pack the soil firmly around it’s base. A layer of organic mulch bodes well for the young plants and is therefore recommended. Place the container in a spot that offers full sun for at least 5-6 hours every day.

If you aren’t growing pansies, you’re missing out on a gardening experience that’s as exciting as any other. Short on space? Ha, grow pansies in containers!

Friday, October 14, 2011

Fall Gardening Reminders

In some regions, gardeners are finding that it’s just too cold to be outside. Don’t spend the season mourning the loss of your summer garden, though. Get your growing fix by tending to your forgotten houseplants, attending a gardening workshop, or getting ready for the holidays with some amaryllis and other favorites. Here are my monthly suggestions for October and November.

Personally, I like to start thinking about my plans for next year’s garden. I clean my gardening equipment before storing, check my stored produce (like winter squash) and remove any that is damaged or rotten, and I may even start building new garden structures for the upcoming growing season.
And don’t forget that November is perfect for pruning! I use branches and other pruning remnants to hold down mulch for the upcoming winter. Of course, soon you’ll want to cover flowers to protect from early cold snaps.
If you’re like me, you love the birds that late autumn and winter bring. In these months, I stock up on birdseed, and continuously check my birdbath to make sure it has fresh water for those over-wintering birds.
If you have any good fall gardening tips, please share it with everyone by leaving a comment below!

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

How to Make Sun Dried Tomatoes

Judging from the size of my tomato plants, I'm hoping for a banner crop. This photo is only 2 weeks old, but with the amount of rain we've been getting in Ohio lately, they're twice as big right now. I've never seen so many flowers!



What is one to do with a ton of tomatoes? Salsa ? Sure, that's an easy one. Spaghetti sauce? Yes, that's on my list too. How about sun dried tomatoes? That might be a nice way to add flavor to a dish.

I spent some time in the Thompson & Morgan library this morning & found an article we published about that very same topic. It must be tomato karma! Here's a reprinted version for to you enjoy as well.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How to Make Sun Dried Tomatoes


Drying food is a long-established and time-honored method for preserving fruits and vegetables. The basic premise is simple: small pieces of food are placed out in the sun and warm, dry air passing over, under and around the food pulls the moisture from it. Ovens and commercial drying equipment are meant to mimic this natural process.

When foods are properly dried, they can't support the growth of spoilage organisms like bacteria, yeast and molds. Well-dried vegetables have almost 90% of their water removed, creating an environment hostile to these spoilage organisms.


To Dry:

The best tomatoes to use for drying are meaty types such as paste tomatoes. Slice tomatoes into halves or thirds if large. If drying outdoors, place skin side down on a screen or tray in an enclosed screen house to keep insects and dirt off the produce. Outdoor drying will take a few days during warm breezy and dry weather. Bring tomatoes in at night to protect from dew. Hot but humid weather is not conducive to drying and it's recommended to use an alternative method if the humidity is high. If using a commercial food dryer, follow those specific directions that are given with the unit. If using the oven, use the lowest setting possible to maintain a temperature below 65C (124F). Drying in an oven can take as little time as overnight. If the temperature cannot remain below 65C (145F), you should consider the other techniques mentioned for drying. Well dried tomatoes should be leathery but pliable. Store in glass or plastic jars with tight lids. At room temperatures of 20C (70F), tomatoes should store up to 3 months; at cooler temperatures, they can store for as long as 6-9 months.


To Use:


Pour an equal mix of vinegar and boiling water, or just boiling water, over the tomatoes and let stand from a few minutes to a half an hour until they are soft and chewy. Drain off water and cover with olive oil and garlic. Let them marinate in the refrigerator or room temperature for several hours prior to use. They'll keep in the oil for about a month. Their concentrated flavor is delicious with pasta or antipasto.

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Grow Up! - The Vertical Vegetable Garden

Do you picture a typical vegetable garden as a vast area, with neat rows stretching to the horizon? Well, it doesn’t have to be that way. If your garden area is limited, you can save space by doing something your mother probably told you– “Grow Up!”

Container Basics:
The size of the container should be compatible with the size of the plant. Small plants in big containers put their efforts into root production, stinting foliage and blooms. Large plants full small pots with their roots, leaving little room for a nutritious planting medium. Think Goldilocks and go “just right.”
If your container doesn’t come with holes for drainage, use a drill to create some. For breakable materials like terra cotta, cover the bottom of the pot with tape to avoid cracks.
Fill your container with moist, but not soggy, planting medium. The best mediums are comprised of sand, soil, and light planting material such as sphagnum or coir fibers. Garden soil is not a good choice for container planting, because it’s too heavy and retains too much moisture.
When you’ve got the right container and the right medium, fill the container to 2” below the rim. While filling, break up any clumps of soil, and gently press down the soil to remove all air pockets.
If you’re starting with seedlings or transplants, set them on top of the soil in an arrangement that works for you, then remove the plants from their pots and place them in their spots. Next, fill in the space around each plant up to its crown. If you’re starting with seeds, plant according to the depth and spacing requirements specified on the seed packet, and finish by providing good gentle soaking of water.
Container gardens need frequent watering. Check the moisture level by poking your finger in the soil; it should be moist, but not soggy. If the soil is dry, add water until it runs out the holes in the bottom of the container. In warm areas, you may have to do this twice a day.
Finally, don’t forget to fertilize. Once a week, use compost tea when you water. If that’s too much trouble, use a gentile, all-natural, slow-release fertilizer that won’t cause salt build-up.