When Growing Flowering Plants From Seed

A lovely ensemble of flowers is something every gardener wishes and longs for. Growing flowers from seed is one of the most economical and effective way of fulfilling that desire. A vast variety of flowering plants, both perennials as well as annuals can be cultivated from seed, that too, at a healthy pace. Growing flowering plants like Sunflowers, Marigold and Roses from seed is relatively easy, and is fast becoming a popular practice. The reason lies in the market prices of young plants, which is often more than a hundred times the price of individual seeds! Also, gardening from seed allows one to grow even those varieties that aren’t easily available at the local garden centers.

Most seed packets come with labels bearing details of the care and conditions the seeds require. Commercially available starting mediums are ideal for sowing your plant seeds. Moisten the mix at least an hour before sowing. The sowing depth varies with the type of seed and should be in accord with the details on the seed packet. Water lightly after sowing and cover with a plastic sheet or dome. Most new seedlings are pretty identical. It’s hence advisable to label the containers when sowing. Irrigate regularly to fulfill the seeds’ need for moisture while making sure not to over water. Once the seeds germinate, remove the plastic cover. Seedlings generally require ample sunlight for growth. You can use fluorescent lamps or other artificial means to provide the seedlings with the desired amount of light and temperature conditions. Start fertilizing the plants when they’ve grown at least 2 sets of true leaves. Use a good quality fertilizer and feed the plants once a week. You can also remove the young plants to individual pots in order to facilitate the hardening process. Start by allowing the plants a couple of hours in a sheltered spot of your garden. Increase the duration of their time outside over the course of about 2 weeks before transplanting them into the garden.

Basics of Bonsai

An eight year old with a handful of G.I. Joes, I was always on a look out for newer terrains to keep adding my own little chapters to the never ending battle between good and evil. The old study table, bedroom floor, bath tub… these were just some of my preferred ‘battlegrounds’. My favorite was mom’s little Bonsai garden. The bonsai conifers and maples were just perfect for ‘jungle battles’! Sure, I wasn’t even allowed to lay a finger on those ‘precious plants’, doesn’t mean I didn’t. Unfortunately, that also doesn’t mean I never got caught, but that’s another story! My point is- I’ve been fascinated by bonsai ever since I was eight and although it’s become very popular over the last decade or so, I always considered bonsai gardening a tough nut and didn’t try my hands at it until last year. As it turned out, I wish I’d started earlier!

The ancient Japanese art of growing miniature trees and plants does call for some care and dedication, but it allows you to create some truly wonderful spectacles! Bonsai is often confused with Dwarfing, but one has absolutely nothing to do with the other. While dwarfing pertains to developing dwarf trees by means of genetic modification, the essence of bonsai lies in growing small sized trees and plants from regular seed and stock, employing techniques like leaf trimming, root reduction, selective pruning, defoliation and grafting. Virtually all perennial woody trees and shrubs can be used for bonsai. While the material of container is a matter of personal preference, its volume shouldn’t ideally exceed 10 liters. Once your bonsai trees reach their planned final size, the container environment serves to restrict further growth.

Regular, careful irrigation is one of the most important aspects of bonsai care. Along with watering, fertilization and composition of soil too, needs to be specialized to the cultural needs of the bonsai plant. You’ll also be required to re pot your bonsais as they gain in age and vigor.

Remember, the true aim of bonsai is creating a miniature replica of a full grown tree or plant. Keep your goals in mind at all times, have some patience and you’ll do wonders!

Growing Carrots in Containers

Lack of growing space is one factor that obstructs the realization of many a gardening goal. And it can be frustrating as hell! Fortunately, there is a way around this hurdle- innovation! Container gardening is one of the most obvious applications of lateral thinking. The long list of plants that can be successfully grown in containers features many that can surprise you. One of them is Carrot. Carrots, along with tomatoes and pepper are amongst the most popular plants in home gardens. Not many, however, know how easy it is to grow carrots in containers. Take a look.

You can start carrot seeds indoors in a container that’s about15 inches in diameter and 12-13 inches deep. Fill the container with quality potting soil and sprinkle the seeds. Top the seeds with a ¼ inch layer of soil and apply water. Carrot seeds usually take 2-3 weeks to germinate. Make sure you keep the soil moist throughout this period. Once the seedlings grow 2-3 inches tall, thin them such that they’re at least an inch apart.

Caring for carrots isn’t difficult. Place the container at a location that gets at least 5-6 hours of full sun every day, irrigate on a regular basis and fertilize them every 3 weeks, preferably with a liquid organic fertilizer. Carrots will be ready to be harvested within 60-80 days from sowing the seeds. Loosen the soil around the carrots using a garden fork and pull them out.

Growing carrots in containers is a simple process that, while it helps save space also allows you to produce healthy, delicious food for your household. So what are you waiting for? Start now!

Best for Containers- Eggplants

“Eggplants in containers? You’ve got to be kidding me!” These, if memory serves me right, are the exact words I uttered when I'd first heard the idea of growing eggplants in containers. I’d chanced upon one of my not too friendly neighbors while out for a jog and had struck a conversation about vegetable gardening. I figured he was just pulling my leg or trying to slow me down- he was struggling to keep up with me. God! I was wrong! After having debated the subject for almost half an hour, I expressed my eagerness to check out his container garden. Hard as I’ve tried, I have, to this day, been unable to forget the disturbing, triumphant guffaw he’d let out as I gaped at that astonishing sight- gorgeous eggplants growing in a 3 gallon container!

It wasn’t too long before I took up the challenge myself. And to be honest, growing eggplants in a container turned out to be a surprisingly simple activity. Here’s an account of my own little success story.

I started eggplant seeds indoors about 8 weeks from the last frost date. I filled the tray with sterile potting mix and planted the seeds. Eggplant seeds should be planted shallow, with no more than ¼ inch of soil covering them. I covered the tray with a plastic sheet and placed it on top of the refrigerator. My main focus was on keeping the soil moist at all times. The seedlings emerged within 2 weeks of planting and I heaved a sigh of relief. I removed the plastic and moved the tray to a sunny window. I started fertilizing eggplants right after they developed a couple of pairs of leaves. I used a 5-10-10 fertilizer and decided to feed the plants every week. It turned out to be the right strategy- the seedlings were soon big enough to be moved to individual containers. I picked 5 gallon containers for my eggplants, spread them along the sunlit sidewalk and irrigated them on a regular basis.  

Growing eggplants from seed is a rewarding process, even for those with a limited growing space. Give it a go!

Best For Containers: Begonias

In a world brimming with color and beauty, where every passing day witnesses the introduction of newer varieties, it’s quite rare for a particular plant to retain its appeal for long. Begonia is one such rarity! This remarkable plant, with its flashy flowers and vibrant foliage comes from the family Begoniaceae and is a wonderful choice for containers and pots. Here’s some information on how you can grow begonia plants in containers.

When growing begonias from seed, sprinkle the seeds on the surface of the medium and mist the surface to help the seeds settle down. Use a plastic or glass sheet to cover the seeds and place them at a shaded spot. Begonia seeds can take up to 2 weeks to germinate. Move them to a bright spot and keep the medium moist at all times. If growth is slow, you can use a balanced fertilizer to feed the plants.

Once the seedlings are strong enough, move them to individual containers. Choose a pot or container with drainage holes at its bottom. If you’re using a pre used container, I’d recommend you sterilize it before planting begonias. Make sure to irrigate begonia seedlings deeply, immediately after planting.

Begonia plants can thrive in both sunny and partially shaded locations and can hence be utilized for hanging baskets, table decorum and other ornamental purposes. Irrigate the young plants on a regular basis. Once the plants establish, you only need water them when the soil feels dry to touch. Fertilize begonia plants once a month, with a standard liquid fertilizer. Potted begonias need to be kept clean in order to prevent diseases and insect build up. Cut off begonia flowers when they fade. Also, remove the dead leaves on a regular basis.

Growing begonias is a fairly simple process. These beauteous plants have a delightful presence, fit for every household and garden!

Best for Containers- Basil Plants

Basil is one herb you can find in almost every kitchen! Integral to a number of recipes savored across the world, this perennial herb is a great option for every home garden. Growing basil in containers is both economical and easy. Also, it’s a fun filled way of ensuring that only safe, best tasting food makes it to your plate.

You can start basil seeds indoors 4-6 weeks from the final frost date for your region. Check the seed packet for details of the right planting depth, spacing and temperature range for basil seeds. Basil seeds take about 7-10 days to germinate. Make sure you irrigate on a regular basis so the seeds can get all the moisture they require. After the seedlings develop 3-4 pairs of true leaves, you can transplant them to individual containers. 

An 8 inch container with sufficient drainage holes is perfect for growing basil plants. Fill in with good quality container soil, up to a couple of inches from the top of the container. Dig a hole that can accommodate the plant’s roots with ease. Set the seedling into the hole and refill. Water thoroughly.

Basil plants will do best at a site where they can get full sun for 5-6 hours a day. Mulch the young plants, using a mix of straw, chopped leaves and other organic materials. This will keep away the roots and help in retention of moisture.

Basil plants thrive on moist conditions but have a known dislike for standing water. I’d suggest you water the plants deeply whenever the soil appears to be drying up. Pinch off the tops of new shoots, along with basil flowers. This will encourage faster growth.

Growing basil in containers involves little care and lesser effort. But it’s very rewarding! Start now.

How to Grow Marigolds from Seed

A bright summer day, gentle breeze and a group of Marigolds in bloom… it’s hard to even imagine a spectacle more stunning! What if you could create this same stunning spectacle in your own garden? Sounds like a tough task? Well, it isn’t! Growing marigolds from seeds takes just a little effort and care. Here’s some information to help you grow marigold plants.

You can start marigold seeds indoors in spring, 6-7 weeks from the first frost free date for your region. Use a sterile seed potting mix for sowing the seeds. Fill the tray with the potting mix and add water to moisten it. Sow the seeds at least 2 inches apart and top them with about ¼ inch of medium. Cover the tray with a plastic cover and place it at a warm spot. Seed germination usually takes 5-7 days. Make sure to check on the seeds ever day and keep the mix moist at all times. 

Once the seeds germinate, remove the plastic cover and move the tray to a bright spot, away from direct sunlight. The seedlings will be ready to be moved to individual containers within the next 10 days. Place the containers in a location that offers full sun. Irrigate the plants regularly, making sure the soil doesn’t become dry.   

Hardening off the seedlings is essential to prepare the plants for the outdoor conditions. Start by placing them in a bright, sheltered area of your garden for a couple of hours. Gradually add to the time the plants spend outdoors over a span of 7-10 days. Once the danger of frost is past, you can transplant marigold seedlings in your garden. 

Pick a sunlit spot with well draining soil for planting marigold seedlings. Next, remove all stones and weeds from the planting site and incorporate peat moss or other organic materials. The planting hole should be just enough large to accommodate the root ball. Sow the seedlings 10-15 inches apart and water well after refill.

Growing marigolds from seed is a process that’s both exciting and inexpensive. Recommended to all!

Tips for Growing Impatiens from Seed

One of the world’s most popular annuals, Impatiens is also one of the most beautiful! This lissome plant blooms early in the spring season, adding both color and appeal to the surroundings. Impatiens plants are cold hardy and can be cultivated in both sunny and shaded sites. Interested in growing impatiens? It’s pretty simple, really, and very economical too! The following tips will help you grow impatiens from seed.

• Fill the container with a sterile seed starting mix and moisten it by adding water. Scatter impatiens seeds and press them gently so that they’re only just below the surface. Use a plastic sheet or lid to cover the container.
• Check the estimated last frost date for your region. You can start impatiens seeds 8-10 weeks from this date.
• Refer the details provided on the seed package for the right growing temperature for the seeds. Artificial lighting apparatus is the easiest means of making sure the seeds get the desired warmth. In case you wish to use direct sunlight, place the container near a window. Make sure you turn the container at regular intervals in order to allow all the seeds to benefit the heat.
•  Check the seeds every day. Also, make sure the mix stays moist at all times. Seed germination normally takes about 10-14 days. Those living in cooler regions might have to wait a little longer. 
• Once the seedlings develop 2-3 pairs of leaves, you can transplant them to individual containers. Fertilize regularly, using a standard, well balanced fertilizer.
• Hardening impatiens seedlings is an essential step in preparing the young plants for the outdoors. Start by placing the containers in a sheltered part of your garden for a couple of hours. Gradually increase the time they spend outdoors over a period of 7-10 days.
• Transplant impatiens only after all threat of frosts is over. In the mean time, you can clear the planting site and add good quantities of organic substances to the soil. Water the plants before removing them from their individual containers. This will loosen the roots and allow for easy transplantation.
• Leave a gap of 3-4 inches between adjacent plants and water thoroughly after planting.

 Irrigate your plants regularly, especially during the first couple of months after planting. Fertilize impatiens just before they bloom in spring. That, and a little care is all you need  for growing impatiens!

Growing Pansies in Containers

A joyous burst of color- that’s what Pansies bring to the scene! That’s also one of the major reasons behind the immense popularity of these winsome plants. Pansies offer an incredible range of flower color that’s invaluable in container gardening. Growing pansies in containers doesn’t take much effort or expertise. It does, however, call for the right knowledge and some planning. Take a look.

 If you’re looking to start pansy seeds indoors, it’s important to sow the seeds at the right time. You can either start in late winter, 7-10 weeks from planting in spring, or start seeds in late summer and plant them in the beginning of fall. The instructions on the seed packet are normally a reliable source of information regarding the right planting depth, spacing and temperature conditions. I sow the seeds shallow, with only a thin layer of soil to cover them. Water thoroughly and cover the container with a plastic lid. Place the container in a cool, dark place. Pansy seeds normally take 2-3 weeks for germination. Check the container at regular intervals and make sure the soil doesn’t dry up at any point. Once the seedlings develop 3-4 leaves, you can transplant them to individual containers.

It’s very important to get the new container all ready for the young plant. Mix equal quantities of organic compost and potting soil. Provide a couple of inches thick layer of loose gravel at the base of the container. The layer of gravel helps in drainage and thus, prevents water logging. Wet the mixture of compost and potting soil. I’d recommend you use distilled water for the task as it’s free from fluoride and other chemicals present in water from regular sources. Next, fill in the container with this mix, up to a couple of inches from the top.

Water the seedling before transplanting. This will loosen the soil and make it easier to remove them. Plant the seedling into the new container and pack the soil firmly around it’s base. A layer of organic mulch bodes well for the young plants and is therefore recommended. Place the container in a spot that offers full sun for at least 5-6 hours every day.

If you aren’t growing pansies, you’re missing out on a gardening experience that’s as exciting as any other. Short on space? Ha, grow pansies in containers!

Fall Gardening Reminders

In some regions, gardeners are finding that it’s just too cold to be outside. Don’t spend the season mourning the loss of your summer garden, though. Get your growing fix by tending to your forgotten houseplants, attending a gardening workshop, or getting ready for the holidays with some amaryllis and other favorites. Here are my monthly suggestions for October and November.

Personally, I like to start thinking about my plans for next year’s garden. I clean my gardening equipment before storing, check my stored produce (like winter squash) and remove any that is damaged or rotten, and I may even start building new garden structures for the upcoming growing season.
And don’t forget that November is perfect for pruning! I use branches and other pruning remnants to hold down mulch for the upcoming winter. Of course, soon you’ll want to cover flowers to protect from early cold snaps.
If you’re like me, you love the birds that late autumn and winter bring. In these months, I stock up on birdseed, and continuously check my birdbath to make sure it has fresh water for those over-wintering birds.
If you have any good fall gardening tips, please share it with everyone by leaving a comment below!

How to Make Sun Dried Tomatoes

Judging from the size of my tomato plants, I'm hoping for a banner crop. This photo is only 2 weeks old, but with the amount of rain we've been getting in Ohio lately, they're twice as big right now. I've never seen so many flowers!



What is one to do with a ton of tomatoes? Salsa ? Sure, that's an easy one. Spaghetti sauce? Yes, that's on my list too. How about sun dried tomatoes? That might be a nice way to add flavor to a dish.

I spent some time in the Thompson & Morgan library this morning & found an article we published about that very same topic. It must be tomato karma! Here's a reprinted version for to you enjoy as well.

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How to Make Sun Dried Tomatoes

Drying food is a long-established and time-honored method for preserving fruits and vegetables. The basic premise is simple: small pieces of food are placed out in the sun and warm, dry air passing over, under and around the food pulls the moisture from it. Ovens and commercial drying equipment are meant to mimic this natural process.

When foods are properly dried, they can't support the growth of spoilage organisms like bacteria, yeast and molds. Well-dried vegetables have almost 90% of their water removed, creating an environment hostile to these spoilage organisms.

To Dry:

The best tomatoes to use for drying are meaty types such as paste tomatoes. Slice tomatoes into halves or thirds if large. If drying outdoors, place skin side down on a screen or tray in an enclosed screen house to keep insects and dirt off the produce. Outdoor drying will take a few days during warm breezy and dry weather. Bring tomatoes in at night to protect from dew. Hot but humid weather is not conducive to drying and it's recommended to use an alternative method if the humidity is high. If using a commercial food dryer, follow those specific directions that are given with the unit. If using the oven, use the lowest setting possible to maintain a temperature below 65C (124F). Drying in an oven can take as little time as overnight. If the temperature cannot remain below 65C (145F), you should consider the other techniques mentioned for drying. Well dried tomatoes should be leathery but pliable. Store in glass or plastic jars with tight lids. At room temperatures of 20C (70F), tomatoes should store up to 3 months; at cooler temperatures, they can store for as long as 6-9 months.

To Use:

Pour an equal mix of vinegar and boiling water, or just boiling water, over the tomatoes and let stand from a few minutes to a half an hour until they are soft and chewy. Drain off water and cover with olive oil and garlic. Let them marinate in the refrigerator or room temperature for several hours prior to use. They'll keep in the oil for about a month. Their concentrated flavor is delicious with pasta or antipasto.

Grow Up! - The Vertical Vegetable Garden

Do you picture a typical vegetable garden as a vast area, with neat rows stretching to the horizon? Well, it doesn’t have to be that way. If your garden area is limited, you can save space by doing something your mother probably told you– “Grow Up!”

Container Basics:
The size of the container should be compatible with the size of the plant. Small plants in big containers put their efforts into root production, stinting foliage and blooms. Large plants full small pots with their roots, leaving little room for a nutritious planting medium. Think Goldilocks and go “just right.”
If your container doesn’t come with holes for drainage, use a drill to create some. For breakable materials like terra cotta, cover the bottom of the pot with tape to avoid cracks.
Fill your container with moist, but not soggy, planting medium. The best mediums are comprised of sand, soil, and light planting material such as sphagnum or coir fibers. Garden soil is not a good choice for container planting, because it’s too heavy and retains too much moisture.
When you’ve got the right container and the right medium, fill the container to 2” below the rim. While filling, break up any clumps of soil, and gently press down the soil to remove all air pockets.
If you’re starting with seedlings or transplants, set them on top of the soil in an arrangement that works for you, then remove the plants from their pots and place them in their spots. Next, fill in the space around each plant up to its crown. If you’re starting with seeds, plant according to the depth and spacing requirements specified on the seed packet, and finish by providing good gentle soaking of water.
Container gardens need frequent watering. Check the moisture level by poking your finger in the soil; it should be moist, but not soggy. If the soil is dry, add water until it runs out the holes in the bottom of the container. In warm areas, you may have to do this twice a day.
Finally, don’t forget to fertilize. Once a week, use compost tea when you water. If that’s too much trouble, use a gentile, all-natural, slow-release fertilizer that won’t cause salt build-up.

Hardening Off Seed-Grown Plants in the Spring

You’ve your seeds sprout, grow true leaves and get taller. In your controlled environment, your seedlings have enjoyed a relatively stress-free life, protected from the heat, cold, wind and rain. Without elemental exposure, your little  seedlings lack the hardiness to be successfully transplanted; but you can change all that by starting the hardening-off process on your own.

Hardening off takes two weeks, and entails gradually exposing your tender seedlings to the elements until they can be transplanted and live outside comfortably.

Beginning the Process

Start the hardening-off process two weeks before the seed’s outside planting date, which is dependent on the hardiness of the plant and the last frost date in your area. Once you’ve determine the date, begin by setting your seeds outside for a couple hours during the day in an area that’s shielded form sun and wind. Direct sun is a definite no-no for young seedlings at this stage, because it will burn the tender leaves. Remember to bring your seedlings in at night. Over the following days, you may increase the time your plants go outside, but do so gradually.

Your Seedlings are Almost Ready

After a few days of gradual and protected outside exposure, you can step up your efforts a notch. Leave your plants out longer and put them in sunnier, cooler, and windier spots. Although some evidence suggests that tomatoes respond well to fertilization at this point, generally it’s not a good idea to feed or overwater your plants right now – remember, you’re trying to toughen them up!

Ready, Set, Grow!

After two weeks of increasing exposure, it’s time to plant them for good. Water the ground thoroughly, and dig a hole just a few inches deeper than the pot in which your seedlings are currently residing. Holding your seedling by the stem, place the seedling in the hole and cover it gently with soil. Once the hole is filled, create a depression around the rim of the plant where water can collect. Be sure to water frequently and to fertilize after this final step. If your weather turns nasty, you can protect your seeds with sun shields and wind blocks.

Sowing Your Own Seeds – Part III

On a Feeding Schedule
Now that the plant has sprouted and gone through the food supply provided by the seed itself, you’re responsible for feeding the burgeoning baby plant. You should feed your seedlings one-quarter strength plant food. If the solution is too strong, it will burn the baby plant. Use room temperature water when you are watering your plant.

After the little plants have formed their second set of real leaves, they are ready to be transplanted into bigger pots. Dislodge the soil using a fork or pencil and gently lift the plant out of the pot, then dangle the plant over its new pot and sprinkle the roots with soil. Once your seedlings have grown a few more inches, they’ll be ready to face the great outdoors. You have to introduce them slowly, however, through a process called hardening off. We’ll go over this process in our next blog post!

Thompson & Morgan Seed Starting Kit

Looking for an easier way to start seeds? I’m really excited about our new Seed Starting Kit. We’ve assembled the absolute best way to start seeds. You’ll get healthy and hearty plants every time! The best part is it’s clean…no fussing with messy potting soil or Dixie cups.

Our Seed Starting Kit allows you to quickly, easily and successfully start all kinds of seeds. Each kit contains everything you need for fast germination and vital root growth. The soil-less grow plugs are made of natural, biodegradable materials so that each plug can be directly transplanted into the garden greatly reducing transplant shock. Each grow plug contains beneficial bacteria to aid in maximum seed germination.

The lightweight 55-cell growing tray wraps each grow plug in warmth and floats them in the water-filled reservoir tray, allowing each seed to get the perfect water-to-air ratio. The humidity dome holds in the warmth and moisture, ensuring early and uniform seed germination
I recently had the opportunity to give the Seed Starting Kit a try, and let me tell you, it works! This is by far the easiest method I have ever used. It allows me to do more – and easily. Give it a try today!

Sowing Your Own Seeds – Part II

Some Like It Warm

To sprout, most seeds prefer a temperature between 70 and 85 degrees (for specific temperatures, see the back of your seed packet). Seeds can be kept in any place that offers warmth. Windowsills can also work, but be sure to check them for drafts that could potentially end your seedling’s short life. You can check by running a lighter or candle along your windowsills; if the light flickers or goes out, you know you’ve got a serious draft. If your windowsills prove to be too drafty, you can use artificial lights. The heat provided by an ordinary shop light offers plenty of warmth for germinating seeds. Once you’ve found a cozy spot for your seeds, it’s time to cover them with plastic (to keep in moisture) and wait for them to send their shoots above the soil line.


They’re Alive!
Immediately following your first sprouts, remove the plastic covering to get essential oxygen to the young’uns. These sprouts are not “true leaves”; they’re cotyledons, which existed within the seed and fed your plant during germination. You’re on the right track; true leaves will appear soon. Remember, even though they’ve sprouted, your seeds still need temperatures in the 60-to-80-degree range to ensure proper growth. Seeds also need light at this stage. If you’re growing with natural light, make sure the containers are raised a little above the sill to minimize the “stretching” seedlings can experience in their efforts to get enough light, and turn then regularly to keep them from growing lopsided.

Artificial light provided by fluorescent shop tubes or grow lights (household incandescent lights don’t offer the right light spectrum for plants) work best, just make sure they offer a combination of warm white and cool white light. Artificial light should be kept 1 – 4” above your seedlings’ tops. Pulley systems work especially well, because you can adjust the lights as the seedlings grow. Seedlings need roughly 16 hours of exposure daily; using a timer on the lights is the easiest way to achieve this. Some gardeners leave the lights on continuously and say their plants have suffered no ill affects. The choice is yours; consult your seed packet for lighting instructions.